So I signed up for EtekCitizen free products in exchange for honest reviews to give it a try (ie. They gave me this ‘Roverbeat Bravo’ headset for free so take my review as a paid advertisement). I recently bought a food scale from them for weighing my RC planes and components and was thrilled with the quality of the scale, so I signed up hoping to get more great quality stuff as I was looking for a gaming headset for the kids. When I received the shipment it was well packaged.
It has very decent sound quality compared to my other much more expensive headset (AKG, K99 Perception), and worked perfectly with my Windows 10 pc and google hangouts, but it definitely feels a bit cheap, the ear padding is super soft and thin and I worry that it will wear out very quickly, only time will tell.
I am used to much higher quality audio gear, but this headset retails for $17.99 on amazon.ca so of course I am not going to find it up to par with my usual gear. However for a $17.99 price I would say it is actually a good value for money, I have given it to my kids and they have been using it for their gaming and loving it.
In conclusion: Not high end (duh, look at the price), but good value and so far it has been great for kids gaming. Happy kids = happy dad.
My 4 year old Ram 1500 mirror puddle lights failed recently, so I went to the dealer and was shocked when they wanted $74 per side plus $45 labor. I was really upset because I expected the LED’s to last the life of the vehicle, and the price was unreasonable. Since bright white LED’s cost almost nothing, I ordered a pack of 20 pre-wired 12V ready white LED’s from Amazon for $5 including shipping. After drilling 3 holes in each old light holder and soldering the wires up (Thick terminal is negative) I now have working lights that are brighter than the originals. It took me half an hour total, which is how long their mechanics supposedly would take to pop them out and back in. I posted this just to encourage anyone who can run a drill and a soldering iron to do this instead of letting the dealers take your money for such a minor job.
I also got a pack of 20 Amber LED’s for the signal lights as 2 have burned out on one side. I will fix that tomorrow!
I recently became interested in DLG gliders after a friend showed me some YouTube videos of the Alula glider and his attempt to build one from scratch. Alula (Flight Test Review)
I built a super simplified version of the Alula and had decent success with it, able to do some slope soaring on a local hill, and also able to ‘discus launch’ it to a decent height. It is not nearly as good as a commercial plane, but I just wanted to try it out without spending over $100. The balance point is very sensitive on this wing, but by using a V-tail I was able to make it much more controllable (ie. less unintentional flipping).
I decided I had to try building a bigger DLG, so using an old carbon fiber golf club and the dimensions of a 1500mm DLG I found on the web I built this in about 2 hours. The wing is a single piece of foam board cut in half. (Parts cost was $3 for club, $1.25 for foam board, used scrap coroplast for body and tail, so I will guess another $2)
It flies really nicely, staying in the air much longer than the small DLG, but the foam wings could not withstand my bad flying skills and broke after a hard nose landing caused by a very bad discuss launch. I replaced the foam wing with a coroplast wing, and it is now a lot heavier but still flies good and seems nearly indestructible after many very bad crashes. The coroplast body and tail slide along the ground really well and never seem to take any damage even when I nosed in hard. I am going to try to lighten the wing by drilling many holes out of the wing and covering the holes with packing tape. Here is the current iteration (weighing 584g, pretty heavy for a glider but ok for slope soaring)
With a hard regular hand launch it will glide over 50 meters. It is also extremely tough, having cartwheeled and nosed-in a few times with no damage. I haven’t gotten very good at doing the discus launch yet, I think that without dihedral it is almost impossible.
Building these two planes has been a lot of fun, can’t wait to try slope soaring it.
I got tired of seeing all the three.js warnings and errors in the flight sim, so I upgraded to r74 and fixed a few bugs caused by the upgrade. I also added more trees around the flight field and changed the aircraft weapons:
Gun1 is now smaller bullets and fast rate of fire
Gun2 is the old gun1 with a slow rate of fire
Bomb1 is the same
Added Bomb2 as a bigger sphere with a slow rate of fire
I would like to thank Heiko Irrgang at 93-interactive.com for posting some really nice skybox’s that are free to use. I have used his ‘TropicalSunnyDay’ Skybox in my RC flight simulator. Looks so much nicer than the old one I hacked together. I just did not have time to do a good job on it, thanks again!
Moved a bunch of the more commonly used features onto the main page with simple icons to click. Much easier to hand launch with 1 click!
Reduced the load time a bit by using a fixed terrain instead of randomly generating one on every page load. Hopefully it is a little quicker to load now.
Use the arrows keys to move around the flying field.
One of the difficulties in learning a new language is re-learning how to do some common things like unit-testing. Today I was referred to a great article on Python and ‘mocking’, and it was interesting enough that I decided I would post a link to it. www.toptal.com/python/an-introduction-to-mocking-in-python These guys at toptal.com have a blog with quite a few interesting articles on software development, I will be checking their blog regularly for new articles.
The wonderful Raspberry Pi Magazine has included my little project in their latest edition (Issue 41)! (So close to 42, but what was the question?…) Thank you very much Lucy Hattersley for writing the article!
So I was just sitting around this weekend, and out of nowhere I realized that I had a flaw in the RC Flight Simulator Physics engine. I wasn’t even thinking about the simulator, I was thinking about my last RC flight and how tight a turn I could pull with my FT-Bushwacker without snapping the wings in half (grin), which lead me to think about the simulator. Funny how the brain works!
I realized that my inertial tensor was being calculated on the aircraft before I had shifted the model coordinates to ensure the c.g. was at coordinate (0,0,0). I had thought that the inertial tensor calcs would not be affected by that originally, oops. After writing a small function to shift the model coordinates, I tried flying a few aircraft and it made a huge difference. The rotation seemed much more realistic and I was able to reduce the rotational damping factor I had been using (to prevent infinite rotation speed) and still have stable calculations. Right now I have cleaned up the code and some of the hacks that I made to some of the model parameters to get them to fly realistically. Some models still do not fly at all realistically, but most are better. The FT-VersaWing still flys incorrectly, oh well, a work in progress…
Many kids and parents had fun watching the Dalek terrorize the neighborhood this halloween.
It is sad that I only seem to have time to drag this out on Halloween. I did manage to solve my belt slip problems, but after a night of driving around the seat motors are getting slower and slower. Looks like I will need to upgrade the drive train over the winter, hopefully next year it will finally be ready to exterminate my lawn.
I did not realize it until someone tracked me down, but the Gamepad API for my flight simulator was failing. This API seems to change quite often, so I have fixed it once again and updated the web site RonsRCSim. If you have trouble playing it, please send an email to email@example.com and I will fix it.